9. Seldovia

Route of flight: SXQ-HOM-SOV

Seldovia is about 15 miles SSW of Homer across Kachemak Bay. It is a picture-postcard town of log cabins and homes perched on stilts above the lagoon.

Seldovia, AK

We landed in light and fluky winds and took a look around for a place to tie down for the night. After a quick scout of the airfield, we took a walk to town - optimistic about finding a meal.

There's one dirt road alongside the airport and we walked down it in the direction that led to the little town we'd seen from the air. Past the airport, the road runs alongside a slough with water so clear it magnified every pebble and blade of grass.

Fishing the slough at the end of the runway

There were a few kids fishing up by the bridge and one happy dog splashing around and scaring away all the fish. The bridge is supported by wooden trestles and is up about 20 feet above the water. From there you can look straight through the water to the bottom. You can also see the fish - chum salmon, making their way upstream.

Steve scouting the chum from the bridge

Houses perch on poles above the water on both banks. There's a coffee shop and bookstore with a porch overhanging the water. A bed-n-breakfast on the far side of the bridge.

the B&B on the other side of the bridge

We crossed and continued to the harbor and Main street passing an impressive chainsaw carving of a lantern fish - ornamented with glass floats. Seldovia has a good sized harbor and a large landing for the car ferry that runs from Homer. It's the only way to get a car out to these parts as there's no road that you can drive this far down the Kenai peninsula.

Seldovia harbor

The harbormaster's office has a commanding view of the harbor and main street. You get the sense that she sees and knows all from her perch. And this being a fairly small town, well, the harbormaster probably keeps an eye on the place. Across the street is the only restaurant in town, and lucky us it was open. It was probably 7pm and the sunlight streamed in through the windows with that golden evening light that really does last forever in Alaska.

We ate well - fresh grilled salmon and fresh broiled halibut pulled from the water just beyond the harbor. We even had a beer. We read the local paper. We kindly interrogated our waitress about life in Seldovia. We made plans for the next day. I nodded off.

Mark & I headed back to the plane to set up a tent so I could go to sleep for real. We pitched our tent under the windsock at the end of the runway as Cessna 206 landed. Out poured a few adults, a couple teenagers and a bunch of fishing tackle. They pulled on waders and headed for the slough. It was after 9pm and that golden evening light was still glowing. I fell asleep.

parked for the night (around 10pm)

Steve & Allen stopped to hang out on the bridge where they met most of the town. The tide was turning and fish were coming in. Chum salmon were running, kings weren't in yet - they were running late this year. Eventually they wandered back and set up their camp.

And then, since it was still light out, they went fishing.